Gatineau River Interpretive Guide
See Low Down article on the event "Who put the banana in Banana Island?"
Join us on Sunday June 12, 2011 for an interpretative paddle down the river between Wakefield and the Gatineau River Yacht Club where we will explore the rich cultural and natural heritage of the river! For more information see Gatineau River Heritage Paddle.
INTRODUCTION
- This is a self-guided tour for boaters as they voyage down the Gatineau River.
- It is intended to increase awareness of the rich social history of this area.
- The guide follows the west side of the river (north to south) from Wakefield to Gleneagle.
- Each community along the way has its own stand-alone section.
- A map supplements the guide to reference each cited location.
Historic Highlights
- The Gatineau River is a 386 kilometre tributary of the Ottawa River.
- The river's name comes from the Gatineau family, prominent fur-traders based in Trois-Rivières in the 17th century.
- The river was an important transportation corridor for native people of the region (mostly Algonquin) and early explorers.
- It was an important fur trading route and was used by the first European settlers to locate their new land grants, before roads existed. After the winter freeze up, it was used as a roadway.
- Logging - From the 19th century up until the second half of the 20th century, the river was used to transport logs to sawmills near the mouth of the river and subsequently to transport pulp logs to the paper mills
- Hydroelectric project of 1926-27 - Prior to 1926 the river was turbulent and difficult to navigate, with rapids, waterfalls, and swirling eddies. In 1926 the Gatineau Power Company undertook a major hydroelectric project. The company expropriated dozens of farms, businesses, houses and cottages to make way for the damming of the river at Chelsea, Paugan and Low. Acres of fertile farmland were also lost to the river. The former villages of Cascades and Kirk's Ferry were most affected by the flooding of the river.
- Rail line along the west bank of the river - The original rail line, constructed in the late 1880s was used for commercial and passenger transport. It was relocated further west to higher ground in the mid 1920s because of the hydroelectric project. The new rail line currently carries tourists on a steam train excursion from Hull to Wakefield during May to October.
- "Summering" up the Gatineau - The construction of the rail line in the late 19th century opened up the Gatineau to Ottawans, who started escaping the hot and humid Ottawa summers to modest cottages along the river. In those early days, there was no electricity, no running water and outdoor toilets. Some of these cottages are still standing. Many were razed or relocated for the hydroelectric project. Others have been converted to all-season residences.
Tour Highlights
- Landmarks and Heritage Buildings - the tour will identify some of the heritage structures, homes and cottages along the river route. The guide also marks locations such as islands, now underwater, foundations of buildings demolished for the hydroelectric project, or reminders of the logging or mining activities. Look for signs of the former log drives - old chains and rock bolts to anchor the boom logs.
Select maps of Wakefield, Farm Point, Cascades, Burnett, Larrimac, Kirk's Ferry and Gleneagle or select an area from the overview map for locations of the following historical points of interest.
WAKEFIELDOrigin of Name The name Wakefield was marked on the map in 1794 when surveyors were laying out townships and was established as a village in 1843. Wakefield, like the adjoining townships of Hull and Masham were named for places in northern England. Claim to Fame This is a historic village that has always been a popular tourist destination. |
William Fairbairn House
The house was built by William Fairbairn in the late 1860s, in a Greek Revival style that was very popular at the time. William Fairbairn and his wife Jean Wanless immigrated to Canada from Scotland in 1817. They arrived in Wakefield in 1834.
Members of the Fairbairn family lived in the house until the early 1900s. The house was moved twice - once in the 1993 to make way for new road construction and again in 2005 to make way for a new condominium complex. The Municipality of La Pêche claimed ownership of the home, in order to save it from demolition by the developer, and moved it to the present location in Hendrick Park.
It is destined to become a heritage centre for the Gatineau Valley. (see map)
Wakefield Covered Bridge
The Wakefield covered bridge was built in 1915 at the northeast entrance of the village and was one of the first bridges to link the two shores of the Gatineau River. It was a one-way restricted use crossing, with great attraction for tourists and as a haven for lovers. Sadly, the bridge was completely destroyed by fire in 1984. Its mysterious burning was never solved.
The almost miraculous ten-year re-building by volunteers on original foundations, achieved through extensive fund-raising was completed in 1997. It was inaugurated by then Governor General Roméo LeBlanc in 1998.The new bridge can only be used by pedestrians, but it kept a few original pieces, including the pillars that support it. (see map)
Tommy Douglas Cottage
Probably built in the early 1900s, it was owned at one time by the Misses Lindsay, who ran the Wakefield Inn. There were various owners, but it was bought by Tommy and Irma Douglas and frequented by them in the 1970s. Tommy Douglas was voted the "Greatest Canadian" in 2009 in a national CBC contest. He was the premier of Saskatchewan from 1944-61, the Leader of the Federal NDP from 1961-1971 and is considered the father of medicare, by introducing the first public health care, in Saskatchewan in the 1950s. (see map)
Presbyterian Manse
The manse is situated about 50 yards from the west bank of the river in front of a sandy beach historically used for swimming and picnics by generations of villagers. It is clapboard construction, two and a half stories, with a wide verandah and railing along the front and one side. The land was sold to the Presbyterian Church by David Maclaren for $40 dollars in 1867 and the building served as a minister's residence till the 1950s. It is now a private residence. (see map)
Wakefield General Store (east side of Riverside)
Started by Daniel Morrison in the early 1920s, it was then bought by Rufus Chamberlin, followed by his son Charlie Chamberlin. In 1965, the Keith Nesbitt family bought it. They enlarged it and still operate this busy ‘typical' country store. (see map)
Doctors' House now private residence (east side of Riverside)
Two doors south of the Wakefield General Store was the home of the first doctor in Wakefield, Dr. Stephen Wright (the nephew of Philemon Wright) from the 1860s. Now it is a white house with black trim, but local historians believe there is a log house under the clapboard and newer siding. It was owned by a succession of doctors after Dr. Wright, including Dr. Falls, Dr. Stevenson and finally Dr. Harold Geggie, who sold it to the current owners.
Not part of the river tour, but worth a visit is a lovely turn of the century mansion with Victorian design elements. Dr. Hans Stevenson built "The Maples" in 1896 on the west side of Riverside Drive. Now a bed and breakfast called "Les Trois Erables", the building at one time housed the office, dispensary, examination & operating rooms for the doctor's practice, as well as the family residence. Dr. Harold Geggie, Dr. Stevenson's assistant, purchased the property after the former's death in 1911.The house remained as the doctors' home in the Geggie family until 1980 when it was sold to a series of owners for operation as a "bed and breakfast". (see map)
Wakefield Railway Station now Pot-au-feu Restaurant (east side of Riverside)
The rail line, completed to Wakefield in 1892, was a great boon to businesses in the village, as well as commuters to Ottawa for work, school and shopping. There were four trains daily from Ottawa during the week, and two on Sundays. This station was built in 1929, and replaced the original one, which sat where the steam train terminal and turntable is now located.
Back then, it was the focal point of the community - to meet or send off family members commuting to jobs in the city, a hang-out for youth with dreams of adventure in far-off places or for others, a place to watch the comings and goings of the village.
It retains a "station" appearance in its role as a restaurant since 1970. (see map)
Maclaren Manor House now "Le Manoir" Seniors' Residence (west side of Riverside)
This was built in the 1850s for David Maclaren, with orchard and farm buildings behind. It became the Manor House Guest House in the 1940s after the MacLaren family left the village. In 1950 with community funds and government support it was converted into the Gatineau Memorial Hospital under the leadership of Dr. Harold Geggie.
Geggie's three sons became doctors and also worked at the hospital, becoming known by their first names to minimize confusion. They were Dr. Hans, Dr. Stuart, and Dr. David. In 1990, the hospital was relocated and the building became a seniors' residence. (see map)
Maclaren General Store now replaced by Au Coeur du Village (west side of Riverside)
Le Hibou restaurant and a number of other businesses have replaced the Maclaren General Store on the west side of the street. It was the hub of the community from 1848. The store sold dry goods and groceries, fresh farm produce, and men's clothing, boots, and shoes; in time it added the services of a tailor, a milliner, and a seamstress.
The adjoining building, now housing the "Soupcon" restaurant and local community newspaper "The Low Down to Hull and Back News", once served as a duplex for employees of MacLaren in the 1870s. (see map)
Temperance Inn replaced by Le Mouton Noir or the Black Sheep Inn (west side of Riverside)
The current building sits on land first occupied by Seth Cates' Temperance Inn in the 1850s. Later dismantled and rebuilt as the present structure, it was previously Chateau Diotte and then Chateau Pearson. In other words, an inn has stood on this site for 160 years.
The Black Sheep Inn website describes itself as a humble jukejoint divebar tavern that has been around for more than 13 years as a music venue. (see map)
Patterson General Store now Jamboree (east side of Riverside)
This property is very historic having been the site of an early log schoolhouse, the first Presbyterian Church, and then Patterson General store from the 1880s. It was destroyed in the fire of 1904 and rebuilt. The Jamboree Gift Store which now occupies the large building one sees on the northern point was formerly the Cross General Store for many years, and then served various other purposes including a dress shop, an art gallery, and a cabinet maker's shop. (see map)
United Church
Most houses in the centre of the village are 100 years old or more, including the brick (Presbyterian) United church, which was replaced after the fire of 1904. (see map)
Place 1870
The two-storey grey building and duplex in the Place 1870 complex at the corner of Valley Drive, was originally owned by the Earle family and has been the site of many different activities.
arly on there was a farm machinery business and hardware run by the Earles on the main floor, and an early theatre for lantern slide shows and early movies, town hall and municipal meeting place on the second floor. More recently it housed an antique store, a newspaper office and artist's studio. Now the main floor is home to the Kaffe 1870 pub, and a gift shop. It remained in Earle family until the 1970s.
The Earle duplex (around the corner) is said to be the oldest still-standing structure in the village. (see map)
Earle Residence now Cafe Molo
On the opposite corner was the Earle's residence,-built in the 1880s. It has been operating as a restaurant for some 30 years. (see map)
Church of the Good Shepherd
This attractive Anglican Church was built in 1919 to replace an earlier church further south. (see map)
South to Rockhurst Hill
Many houses in the south stretch of riverfront towards Rockhurst Hill Road were built by Robert Earle around 1920. All of the steep-roofed houses visible at the bottom of Rockhurst Hill were built as cottages in the late 1800s, once train service became available. They are now year-round residences. (see map)
Orange Hall
Another visible riverside building is the former Orange Hall at the south end of the village, where the road crosses the railway tracks and the old Rockhurst train station once stood. Orange Hall was built around an existing house in the late 1800s and was operated as an Orange Lodge until the 1960s.The red brick building is now a private residence.
A good proportion of the Protestant male population belonged to the Orange Order, former Northern Irish who supported the cause of William of Orange against Catholicism. Each July 12th in Wakefield, a parade of pipes and drums followed a symbolic "King Billy" on a white horse. (see map)
Copeland's Ferry
William Copeland owned land on both sides of river, with his own farmhouse located further south. His ferry operation was the mainstay for people on the east side of the river until the bridge was constructed. Copeland's ferry, also known as a scow, was not a cable ferry as others down river were, but used the movement of the currents and eddies. (see map)
William Copeland Farmhouse and Original Outbuildings
The farm was homesteaded starting in 1834 by Thomas Copeland, his two sons and their families. They were Irish, British Wesleyan Methodists, and had the first church in the area on their land. The initial farm was 74 acres of which 40 acres were cultivated. They grew wheat, peas, oats and potatoes. When they started they had one horse, four sheep and four hogs.
By the time of Thomas Copeland's death in 1858, the family had acquired 600 acres on both sides of the river. Copeland, one of his sons, William, and his sons' wives are buried just north of the main house at the foot of the hill by the tall pine tree. (see map)
FARM POINTOrigin of Name Possibly named because of the number of farms once found in this area. Claim to Fame Home to one of the first electric power plants in the area, built by entrepreneur Freeman Cross. It is also the probable site of the drowning of Stephen Bingham, former Mayor of Ottawa and expert logger. In 1905 the "River King" was called out in the middle of the night to clear a log jam at Cascades, just south of Farm Point. Afterwards, he headed north by horse and carriage to lodge in Wakefield for the night. Along the way, he fell asleep, just before his horses stopped for water by the Gatineau River. One horse lost its footing, causing the carriage to overturn into the river, drowning Bingham. |
Brucite Plant
There was a brucite plant on this former Maxwell property. (Maxwell settled the same time as Copeland of Wakefield, around 1830). Opened in 1942, the plant was operated by Alcan. It was not a very lucrative enterprise but gave much needed work to the area after the depression, employing between 90 and 100 workers, mostly from Farm Point and Wakefield. A small business in crushed stone continues today.
Brucite is used in the manufacture of refractories (heat resistant bricks used in high temperature ovens and kilns). From this rock come magnesium oxide and lime byproducts, resulting in the white sludge one can see in the river banks nearby. The brucite was shipped by rail to another plant at Kilmar for the making of brick. Low grade ore was crushed and sold at $5 a load as gravel for driveways and roads. One can still see evidence of this in many of the laneways in the surrounding area. The mining occurred in a quarry south of the plant, and moved out by truck. It later produced a fertilizer called magnesia. The plant closed in April 1968 and was only partially dismantled.
This site, now called Morrison's Quarry, is home to the highest bungee jump attraction in North America. (see map)
Lnwarn Lodge and the Island View Restaurant
Lnwarn Lodge was situated near the present site of the Farm Point Community Centre, which is called the "old Farm Point School" by locals. Lnwarn Lodge began operation sometime around 1909 and could accommodate up to 100 guests. Its name, pronounced "Len Warren," was derived from the names Leonard and Warren Cox whose family had a cottage at Farm Point. Their connection to the proprietor, Allan P. Thompson of Bermuda, was not known. A brochure of the day proudly describes its amenities:
Lnwarn Lodge is situated on fifty acres of land bordering on the Gatineau River, with tennis courts, nine-hole golf links, gardens and groves, instantly accessible to the City of Ottawa. House and grounds lighted throughout with electricity. The dining room at Lnwarn Lodge is supplied daily with every possible delicacy - prime beef from the Ottawa Market; little chickens that come unplucked from neighbouring farms; home grown vegetables.
The Island View Restaurant was close to Lnwarn Lodge, and took its name from its pleasant view of an island in the Gatineau River. At some point the lodge went into a decline and little else is known about it demise. The restaurant has also disappeared.
Of interest, Freeman Cross built a lookout on top of the hill beside the hotel to watch traffic on the river. (see map)
Former Island with the "Star" Cottage
This long gone island, once owned by businessman Freeman Cross, had a charming cottage on it. (He later built a unique cottage up in the hills called the "Comet"). A 300 foot swinging bridge with lattice wood support allowed one to walk to the island. The bridge burned to the ground at some point and in 1926-27, the flooding of the river submerged the island. At the site of the highest point of this former island, one can occasionally see an odd seagull or two, perching on this shallow section of the river. (see map)
Levi Reid Scow
This public ferry was operated from the Levi Reid farm (now Mont Cascades golf course) on the east side of the river to just north of the Meech Creek, where it empties into the Gatineau River. It took both children from the east shore to the Farm Point School and families to the Protestant Church. It was named for its owner, who was known for sporting a gold earring.
In the winter, there were ice bridges built at the main ferry crossings by strengthening the ice with water shovelled out of cut holes in the ice for four or five nights. Branches of evergreens were used as markers to guide the way for people crossing the frozen river. This meant there were only a few weeks a year, when children or others could not get across the river to school, church or stores. (see map)
Freeman Cross Sawmill, Power Plant and Toy Factory
Cross harnessed the water coming down from Meech Creek, the final outflow from Meech Lake, by building a dam in 1908. This provided power for his saw mill which produced railway ties and board lumber. The sawmill employed about 20 men, who worked 10 hour days at 25 cents an hour, with no coffee breaks.
Cross built a power plant in 1912 and produced among the first electric power available locally to the public at the time. The dam broke in 1934, following the spring thaw. When his property was expropriated by the Gatineau Power Company for its hydroelectric project of 1926, he took legal action through the Superior Court of Quebec for better compensation. For a short period, he also operated a toy factory, producing wooden toys. (see map)
Brucite Quarry
On the hills to the west, one can see the Dery Quarry, formerly the Cross Quarry owned by Stephen Cross, the brother of Freeman Cross. The open pit mines are on the north side, with the slag on the south. The brucite was trucked to the Alcan Plant further north, for processing. This quarry is no longer in operation. (see map)
Stephen Cross Sawmill, Store and Cheese Factory
Freeman Cross's brother, Stephen, was as entrepreneurial as he was. Next to Stephen Cross's three storey home, was his sawmill, a store, and a cheese factory. Milk was shipped in from neighbouring community to make cheese. The store sold a bit of everything from soup to nuts, rubber boots to seed. Brucite was first discovered on Stephen's property and he opened the quarry mentioned above, considered of economic significance. The sawmill burned down, and his house was expropriated for the hydroelectric project. (see map)
Caves Farmhouse and Scow
The Caves family owned farm property on both sides of the Gatineau River and operated a small private scow just south of here to transport their farm animals, hay, and machinery back and forth. (see map)
CASCADESOrigin of Name Named after its five cascades or rapids, with a fall of 7.5 feet. Claim to Fame Nicknamed the "lost village of Cascades" because of the impact of the flooding of the Gatineau River in 1926-27. It is home to the Cascades Social and Sports Club, a recreational community club established in 1920. |
North Rapids
As one heads south, you come to where the first of five rapids was found. (see map)
Green Rail line Shed
Once used to store the railway's small track cars, also known as "putt putts". (see map)
Site of "Grey Owl" Filming
Behind the grey fence, portions of the 1999 Attenborough film "Grey Owl" starring Pierce Brosnan, about naturalist Archie Belaney, were filmed. A now dismantled set with several buildings was constructed. (see map)
Little White House with Blue Roof
The little white church was built as a schoolhouse around the year 1858, and used for church services on Sunday. Alice Cross Wilson was church organist for over 40 years at Cascades. This is now a private residence. (see map)
Peerless Rapids
This area used to be treacherous, filled with rapids and jutting rocks. After the flooding in 1926, the section known as the narrows denotes the area where the Gatineau Boom Company would string cables across the river to stop the logs from continuing down the river. The logs, which had been free floating from the Paugan dam to this point, were grouped into floating corrals, called booms. In this form, they would continue down to the Chelsea dam. On the east side of the river is Pike Bay. (see map)
Peerless Hotel
The famous four storey 30 room hotel was owned by the Wilson family and was built in the early 1890s. It was a popular spot housing a post office, telephone exchange and general store. The large brick structure was closed when the Gatineau River was flooded by the dams at Chelsea in 1927 and remained standing until the 1940s.
A daughter of Alice Wilson, the church organist, recalls after she and the other children went to bed at night, Alice would practise her hymns for Sunday. Through a stovepipe hole in the large dining room of the Peerless Hotel, the music and heat wafted up to the bedroom above, where at least four of the younger children slept in wintertime. (see map)
Float Plane Tie Up/ Air Cascades
Boom House now Cascades Club dock
In the post flooding period (after 1926) a boom house was located where the Cascades Club dock is now. The Cascades Club is now a thriving paddling club featuring dragon boat, kayak and sprint kayak programs for youth and masters paddlers. The club sends local athletes to regattas across Canada and around the world. (see map)
Ramsay Point and McDiarmid cottage
As one looks straight ahead to the south, the white and red McDiarmid cottage with turret is visible in the distance. On the south shore of Ramsay Bay, it overlooks the lost village of Cascades. This period cottage was built in 1875. (see map)
Former Cottage of Diamond Jenness (1886-1969) and "the Doll House"
One of Canada's greatest scientists and an anthropologist, Diamond Jenness and his wife Eileen spent most of their married life in summer cottages in Chelsea. In 1930, they purchased some property at the northern tip of Ramsey Point and built a cottage, since replaced by later owners with a year-round residence. In 1937 a boathouse was added, located inside Ramsey Bay, which can be seen from the railroad. In 1950, they added a little cabin on a tiny slice of property north of Ramsey Point. It can be see hidden behind trees along the shore close to a rock cut on the rail line. Eileen Jenness used this as retreat where she could retire to read. She called it "the Doll House".
In 1957, they decided to live year-round in Chelsea, building a home on Jenness Road further north in Cascades. (see map)
Toll Gate #3 on the old macadamized road
Now underwater, Toll Gate #3 existed until the hydroelectric project of 1926 flooded the macadamized road which had been built in 1896. The first tollgate was in Wrightville (now part of Gatineau (Hull), and the second gate was at Chelsea. The toll was based on the number of horses and the type of vehicle-express or wagons. (see map)
Gilmour Log Storage
Originally used to store logs for the Gilmour Mills. The Gatineau Boom Company operated a steam jenny in the middle of the river that was used to cut logs. (see map)
South Rapids
At this point, one comes to the final of five rapids that comprised the Cascades Rapids. (see map)
BURNETTOrigin of Name Named after one of its first farming residents, as is a major road in the area leading down to the river. Claim to Fame Home to "Chrisalis II", a paddle wheeler |
Beattie Point
The south end of Ramsey Point (identified by the green boathouse) has become known as Beattie Point after its current residents. It was first called Dickie's Point after Dr. J.K.M. Dickie who lived there with his wife, Eva. The point used to be much bigger but the erosion of land with the annual spring breakup has reduced it to about half of what it was in the 1950s, until an adequate breakwater was built.
Before a road was built in 1965 to Beattie Point, writer Catherine Joyce (nee Beattie) recalls her family parking at the bottom of Burnett Road. They would row across in a little rowboat with groceries, four kids, two adults and the dog swimming along side. When her father arrived home from work, he would honk his car horn, with two long/ two short toots. Someone would row over and get him every evening. (see map)
Rock Island
This island is visible across from Beattie's Point on the east side of the river. It has a few small trees and bushes. (see map)
Banana Island
Once in the middle of the river, this former sand bar had one small tree and was often visited by locals, especially teenagers. Over time, the island has been washed away. (see map)
Burnett Road to Burnett Farmhouse
Now a boat ramp for public access, this road was cut off by the flooding of the river in 1926. Below the water in this area used to be fertile farmland and the former Burnett homestead. A former Mayor of Chelsea, Judy Grant, (nee Bradley) recalls swimming as a youth through the window frames of the now underwater foundation. (see map)
Diving Rock
A rock along the shore 30 to 40 feet south of the boathouse was often used as a spot for diving. (see map)
Hopkins' Paddleboat
As one paddles south arriving at Burnett, one can see the Chrisalis II in the distance. This paddleboat is fully equipped and has been used as a summer cottage by its owners. It was built by Alan Hopkins (who died in 2009) from a ramshackle hull of a 25 year old logging barge which was home to les draveurs, the raftsmen. It was named after his two children, Chris and Lisa. (see map)
Former Maxwell farmhouse and Maxwell Peninsula
The bluish grey home along the east bank of the river. Maxwell Peninsula is home to several long-time cottages, which one will see when paddling by. (see map)
LARRIMACOrigin of Name In 1932, the name of this area was changed from Lacharity to Larrimac Links (and later to simply Larrimac). Larrimac was a contraction of Larry McCooey's name, and recognized his contribution as a founder of the Larrimac Golf Club. Claim to Fame Home of the Larrimac Golf Club, a golf and tennis club established in 1923. |
Former Machine Shed of the Bates Farm
This is marked by a marshy area with a mound of about 20 feet of stone rubble emerging from the weeds. A part of an old metal bed frame marks the spot. The chunks of cement are the remnants of the original machine shed, probably belonging to Billy Bates. Horse shoes have also been found in this area. (see map)
Bates Farm
Further south on the west shore, is part of the former Bates farmland (where a grey-stained house sits). Further up the hill, but not visible, are some of the original outbuildings. The actual site of the Bates homestead is underwater, in the middle of the bay. Only the foundation remains, the consequence of the 1926 flooding of the river. (see map)
Historic Cottages
The area from here to Gleneagle was popular with Ottawans escaping the hot sticky summers. The train provided easy access, and allowed cottagers to commute daily to work during the summer. Along this route are many cottages, some hidden by the trees. Many were built in the 1930s to 1960s. Some have since been winterized and are lived in year round. (see map)
Larrimac Golf Club
In 1923, a young Larry McCooey first set up a crudely marked course of only a few holes on a portion of rented farmland. The following summer, with some other nearby cottagers, the notion of a community golf course gelled. The first club house was an expropriated cottage, moved to club property around 1926 from lower ground, which was needed for the relocation of the rail line.
For many years, the 1st 2nd and 3rd holes of the course had a broad view of the river below. Now the hills are covered with large trees and the course is no longer visible from the water. In the 1930s and 1940s the Gatineau River was the site of many regattas for the youth of the club, with prizes for diving, swimming and canoeing. (see map)
KIRK'S FERRYOrigin of Name Named after Thomas Kirk, a businessman who was the first of several persons who operated a ferry which crossed the river. Claim to Fame This was a thriving community prior to the flooding of the river. There were hotels, stores, a church which also served as a school and a ferry service from the east shore. Many cottages sprang up along the original banks of the river. |
Site of former Pearson and Smith Islands
Before the flooding of the river by the Gatineau Power Company, there were two large islands in the middle of the river. On the west side was Pearson Island with Smith Island on the east. Both islands are now underwater. In 1906, Sydney Lee bought the western island and constructed a castle like cottage with turrets and battlements, reminiscent of his homeland in Scotland. The cottage was called Bonniview Castle. In 1913, it was sold to its last owner, Bill Pearson. In 1925, the island was expropriated and the cottage demolished. Little is known about Smith Island. (see map)
Site of a former phosphate mine
The phosphate deposit in this mine was last worked about 1890. It was the largest phosphate mine in West Hull (now re-named Chelsea). It was oval-shaped, running north-northeast about 90 feet long and 30 feet wide. It was about 35 feet deep, and some 300 tons of high grade ore was taken out. (see map)
A 1920s period cottage - Sherrin Cottage
This is a period cottage built around 1922 by Philip and Eta Sherrin. Phil was a founder of the Larrimac Golf Club in 1924. He was a hydraulic engineer brought over to help build a pipeline to bring fresh water to Ottawa from 31 Mile Lake, north of here (this never happened). In those early days, Eta hosted Saturday afternoon teas at the clubhouse, and embroidered the numbers on the flags marking the golf course tees. After the flooding of the river, the cottage became waterfront, and was so close to the river that Phil used to fish off the verandah for his breakfast. Note the tree stumps still sticking out of the river near the cottage. (see map)
Selwyn Point
In 1902, Percy and Gertrude Selwyn bought this property. A new home at the north end replaced a 1880s cottage in 2007. Selwyn descendants still live and own the three homes (one a cottage) along this peninsula between the rail line and the river. Until the flooding of the river in 1926-27, this area was landlocked, surrounded by acres of horticulture - perennial plants, flowering hedges and shrubs, fruit trees and raspberry and strawberry plants. A 50 foot high wind-generated tower brought water from the river for the gardens. Percy and his son Harley were beekeepers and kept up to 100 colonies of honeybees on the property. The concrete foundation of the demolished bee house is still underwater. The rocky point at the north still holds a steel tie up, a leftover from log booms and tugboats.
Moving south along this peninsula is a dark green bungalow cottage. It was brought over the frozen river by horse from Cantley sometime in the late 1920s. The last home on this stretch of land is a white with green trim house. It is a former cottage that was winterized in the 1980s. Before the original cottage was built, the summer occupants tented on this land, with bedroom, dining and kitchen tents. (see map)
Site of Thomas Kirk's Ferry Operation (bottom of Hellard Road)
Thomas Kirk was originally from Ireland. He was a local entrepreneur who owned property on both sides of the river. He was the first to establish a ferry service, then mostly used by those on the east shore who came over for supplies and services at the populous village of Kirk's Ferry.
At first the ferry was propelled by oars but later it became a scow ferry worked by a cable. Kirk was quite a business man. There was a Kirk's Tavern nearby that was much used by shanty men and was a stopping place for the stage. Following the Kirks, Paddy Fleming, assisted by Jack O'Connell operated a ferry in this general location. Christie Fleming was the last ferryman, as after the flooding of the once dangerous Gatineau River, it was slow flowing with a gentle current. This eliminated the need for a ferry.
On the hill above this area, but hidden by trees, are two heritage cottages built in the early 1900s by the Brown and Journeaux families, and still enjoyed by their descendants. (see map)
A former horse stable
After the flooding of the river, this bay became a popular swimming spot. Previously it was fertile farmland, belonging to a long-time farmer, Charlie Reid. The concrete walls with its unframed windows seen on the shoreline are the remnants of a former horse stable once owned by Charlie. This is a visible reminder of the farming history of this area. (see map)
GLENEAGLEOrigin of Name This area was originally called Summerlea. At some point prior to the mid 1930s, its name was changed to Gleneagle. A road off the Gleneagle Road leading to the walkway of the island home of the Gatineau River Yacht Club is still named Summerlea. Why was the name changed? One long-time resident was told the following story, which has not been verified. The CPR was setting out the various stations for the relocation of the rail line in the mid 1920s. However, the name Summerlea was already in use so a new name was needed. Jason Cross, who lived in the still standing large old farmhouse along the highway, was planning to build a small nine hole golf course. The chosen name of the course was to be Gleneagle, like the one in Scotland. The CPR liked this name and the area became known as Gleneagle. Claim to Fame Home of the Gatineau River Yacht Club, a popular sailing club established in 1962. |
Former Ferry Master's House
As one leaves Kirk's Ferry Bay and paddles around a large peninsula (east of the rail line and accessed by Kirk's Ferry Road), one sees a modern two story structure with pale brown siding. The current owner believes this is the rebuilt former home of Paddy Fleming. Paddy was a ferryman for Thomas Kirk's ferry operation. Kirk's ferry crossed the river further north, at the bottom of Hellard Road.
In later years Paddy Fleming took over the operation of the ferry, cutting wood in the winter on the Cantley side for his livelihood. It is believed that this is the third site of the home. The current owners were told that when the river was to be flooded in 1926, the house was moved up the river to Cascades for a few years and used as a dance hall. It was then moved back down to its present location. Both trips were made by horse and sleigh on the frozen river.
In 2006, a major renovation was undertaken of the deteriorating structure. As part of the original evergreen-coloured clapboard was peeled away from the home's exterior, a drawing of a trapeze artist appeared. Then into view came a sword swallower and the eye of an elephant. In fact, beneath the clapboard was a circus billboard for "Sparks World Famous Circus" that had been used as a layer of sheathing. The circus had toured the U.S. and Canada a century ago, and became infamous for the very elephant appearing on the billboard sheathing. The elephant, which came to be known as Murderous Mary, killed her handler in a fit of rage. (see map)
Summerlea Road
This is one of several roads, such as Burnett Road further north, that disappears into the river and looks like a planned boat launch. In fact, these roads at one time lead to houses, cottages, farms and even hotels. In 1926, dozens of such structures were either relocated to higher ground or razed to make way for the flooding of the river. (see map)
Williams' Heritage Cottage
Across from the yacht club is a lovely old cottage from the early 1900s. It was originally owned by Rowland Williams, a lumberman, and his family. He was from Wales in the UK and befitting this, a Welsh inscription carved by Williams himself looks down from a door frame in the living room. Once there was a rose garden and tennis court off the front balcony, now lost to the river. (see map)
Eaton's Chute
Today we know the river as a pleasant venue for paddling, sailing and swimming. However, before its flooding in 1926 for a major hydroelectric project, it was a treacherous body of water, full of floating logs, undertows and swirling eddies. The river regularly drowned the unwary.
Up till then, Eaton's Chute was a rough piece of water extending across the river from Cantley to the island on the west shore where the Gatineau River Yacht Club is located today. (Before the flooding, this island home of the club was part of the mainland).Eaton's Chute was a tourist attraction and favoured picnic spot. It was also an oft photographed site by amateur and professionals alike. (see map)
The Gatineau River Yacht Club
After the flooding of the once rapid-filled Gatineau River, it would be another 36 years before a sailing club was formed. In 1962, five landlocked residents in the Gleneagle area gathered around a kitchen table and decided on a plan to form a sailing club. It would become the Gatineau River Yacht Club. In the fall of 1963, a special island property came up for sale. It was in Gleneagle, close to the club's moorings and included two islands connected by a walkway, complete with cottage and two sleeping cabins. A more ideal spot for a sailing club could not be found.
The work to adapt the property for a sailing club use was considerable. The then Gatineau Boom Company donated lumber for a walkway over to the island. Members provided the labour (and often donated the supplies). Trees and bushes were hacked out to clear an approach to the island. The cottage and cabins were converted to suit clubhouse requirements. A lighthouse built by Ed Quipp and Pat Evans (in Ed's basement) was delivered by pontoon barge to serve as the starting point for races. (In 1986 a strong windstorm uprooted about 60 trees on the island and destroyed the lighthouse. A new structure is in place today).
In a move that hopefully would never happen today, according to the club's website, "there were a number interesting items jettisoned from the ramparts including a purple piano, a coke cooler and an old oven, all of which, to the best of everyone's knowledge, are still making excellent fish habitat". Today the GRYC is a community based club offering a children's summer camp and a sailing program. The Club also runs social events and hosts invitational sailing regattas. (see map)






























































