Up the Gatineau! Article
This article was first published in Up the Gatineau! Volume 20.
Why Cover the Bridge?
Archie M. Pennie
The passing years take more than their toll of dates and birthdays. They sweep away many things that once seemed to be immortal and likely to be forever part of our way of life and our landscape. The great thundering steam locomotive, synonymous with power and mechanical triumph, has, within recent years, disappeared completely from our daily lives and now is seen only in museums and the staid seclusion of city parks where it still remains a thing of beauty, wonderment and fascination.
Those of us who find peace, pleasure and enjoyment in the Gatineau Valley are sadly aware of yet another triumph of engineering and architecture that is being whittled away as the years slip by — a victim of time, progress and heavy traffic. The engineering structures and masterpieces that are joining the steam locomotive in extinction are the covered bridges.
One of the many delightful scenes on a journey up the Gatineau River was the covered bridge that burst into view as the sharp and tricky turn is negotiated at Wakefield Village. At one time (just a few years ago) this was the first of many such bridges that crossed the river and contributed greatly to the atmosphere and charm for which this part of the country is renowned.
The past years have seen a steady and relentless demolition of these masterpieces and today many of them have been replaced by stereotyped and mundane steel girder and concrete structures or, what is even worse, by large, ugly, corrugated culverts. The landmark bridge at Wakefield, after providing transportation and colour to the district since 1915, was not demolished but was deliberately burned by vandals on the night of July 10, 1984.
As structures, covered bridges have a charm and architectural appeal, but it was not for either of these reasons that they were roofed in the first place. The question, why they were covered, generally elicits numerous answers and suggestions, but strangely enough seldom is the correct one obtained.
The cover or roof was not provided to protect the traveller or his horse, or to keep the sight of running water or the drop to the river bed away from flighty animals. Some "experts" suggest that the old bridge builders were really barn contractors at best and to them a barn or box-like structure was the simplest to build. This was not the case. And neither were they roofed to keep the snow off the roadway. The real and only reason for roofing was to protect the main timbers of the bridge from the weather, particularly the side trusses which carry most of the load.
Ever since man has employed wood as a material of construction he has been made sadly and sometimes tragically aware of its shortcomings, particularly the effect of rain and moisture. The repeated wetting and drying cycles play havoc with wood and it is these cycles that cause rot. How to prevent it? Keep the timber dry.
An uncovered wooden bridge has a lifetime of 10 to 15 years; the covered or roofed bridge can last indefinitely. The philosophy and reason for covering the bridges is best summed up by an eastern seaboard bridge builder: “Our bridges were covered for the same reason that belles wore hoop skirts and crinolines — to protect the structural beauty which is seldom seen but nevertheless appreciated".
Strange as it may seem. the covered bridge is not a North American invention. Covered bridges have been known since Biblical times. In those early days they were roofed in, not to protect the structure, but to provide gathering or meeting places. In Italy, China and Mexico it was common practice to cover stone bridges in order to form market places or, as we might call them today, shopping centres and malls. Swiss and German bridge builders long ago made use of wooden trusses and recognized the need to protect them from the elements. Large covered bridges were relatively common in the more heavily wooded parts of Europe where good timber was available as early as the 14th century. In fact some 200 covered bridges are still in operation in Switzerland and Germany today. Several in Switzerland, built of virgin timber beams, have been standing for more that 400 years, notably the "Chapel1" and the "Dance of Death" bridges in Lucerne.
The covered bridge first appeared in the New World about the beginning of the 19th century. The first known structure was erected by Timothy Parker over the Schuylkill River in Philadelphia. From that date onwards covered bridges became extremely popular and their use spread across the country. As the years went by, more sound engineering was applied to the structure and novel and improved designs resulted. The advent of the railroad gave additional impetus to covered bridge design and construction and some well recognized masterpieces resulted.
Many of these bridges played an important role in the American Civil War. for burning the bridge resulted in an immediate cutting of the lines of attack and communications. At Sheldon, Vermont, in the most northerly engagement of the war. Confederate Bennett Young set fire to the covered bridge and escaped to the nearby Canadian border.
Here in Canada most of the surviving bridges are to be found in Quebec and New Brunswick. Within recent years the last known covered bridge in Nova Scotia was pulled down. The bridges in Quebec are not old by North American standards and the majority of them are of 20th century design and manufacture. Many of them were built with the assistance of the Provincial Department of Colonization and quite often are referred to locally as "colonization" bridges. Generally the abutments and piers are gravel-filled cribs. but others are of poured concrete.
In March 1965, the total count of covered bridges in North America was approximately 1500. Of this number, 421 were in Canada, with the majority in Quebec and New Brunswick. Although the Canadian bridges may not be the oldest on the Continent, Canada has the distinction of having the world's longest covered bridge which is at Hartland, New Brunswick; it is 1282 feet long.
The general philosophy nowadays is to tear down old covered bridges when they are in need of repair or when country roads are widened or improved. Fortunately there are exceptions to this ruthless rule.
The covered bridge one mile west of Fort Coulonge on Highway 8 was threatened with demolition by the Mansfield Township Council. A group of sensible and interested citizens banded together, collected the necessary $10,000 and repaired the structure, using the same hand tools and techniques used by the original builder. Augustus Brown, who built the entire structure for $6,000 in 1898. Thanks to these enthusiasts, this 583-foot bridge — reputed to be the second longest in the world — has been preserved for this and future generations.
To the country dweller of a generation or more ago, the covered bridge was many things, particularly to youngsters and teenagers. It was a sheltered and shady rendezvous, its latticed and crossed beams presented great challenges for acrobatics and other feats of skill and daring. The bridges were not known as “kissing bridges“ for nothing, and many a budding village romance was catalyzed by their seclusion and shade. Likewise many of these same romances and alliances were spotted and interrupted by the sniggering youngsters who considered it fair game to hide in the rafters and spy on courtin' couples! No doubt these miscreants were the ones who broke the news of the liaison between the new school teacher and the bank clerk! Time and progress have changed the way of life and the usefulness of the bridges. No longer do they serve as meeting places and appropriate sites for advertising the next auction sale, the visit of the touring circus, patent medicines, or Kendall's infallible spavin cure for horses.
In the mid-1950s, when I first travelled the Gatineau highway on rny way to Lake Pemichangan, I saw or crossed seven covered bridges. Alas all have disappeared, but thanks to an enthusiastic and dedicated group in the Wakefield area, the Gendron bridge will soon, like the phoenix, rise from its ashes. The group has begged, borrowed or acquired most of the materials required for its reconstruction and they hope by next year, 1995, to have it built to once again take its place as a historic treasure of Wakefield. All of us should be eternally grateful to them for their persevering efforts and enthusiasm.
Do not despair, there are still two excellent examples of covered bridges just off Highway 105. One crosses Meech Creek on the Pine Road just south of Wakefield and the other can be found at Fieldville, west of Low and south of Venosta crossing Stag Creek. Have a good look at them. for who knows how much longer they will be with us.
Footnote
- In August, 1993 a fire destroyed most of the "Chapel" bridge. The old tower remains, and some of the paintings can be restored: the structure is being rebuilt.